Puglia Travel Guide

Hi, my name is Sophie and I work full time, 9–5, and travel using my annual leave. I usually travel with my partner, Dan, and we are in our early 30s.

We love to visit beautiful places (usually sunny destinations) with gorgeous architecture, great restaurants and bars, and plenty of day trips to explore all the area has to offer, as well as beaches to relax.

I travelled around the regions of Puglia and Basilicata for 10 days with my partner Dan, my dad, and my step Mum. I hadn’t travelled abroad with my dad since I was 16, so this was such a lovely experience. We rented a car and based our stay across Polignano a Mare, Lecce, and Matera. The reason we chose these overnight stays was that they were a good distance apart, which allowed us to break up the driving between destinations while visiting villages we wanted to see along the way on our road trip.

The criteria for our hotel stays were that we wanted to be close to busy areas with restaurants, bars, and a real sense of hustle and bustle, rather than staying in an Airbnb on the outskirts. We also wanted good private parking (more detail on this in the accommodation section of this guide) so our rental car didn’t get damaged. This meant that our hotels were usually situated just outside the main old towns.

How long to travel in total?

This all depends on which places you are aiming to visit, if you are aiming to visit all areas outlined in this itinerary, then 10 - 14 days is best, depending on if you are renting a car or planning on using public transportation. We rented a car and completed this road trip in 10 days, we did not want to feel rushed and wanted to be able to enjoy and really explore each place we visited. In hindsight, I could have easily stayed longer, but I didnt have enough annual leave left to take at work (hence the name of my handle, I never have enought holidays left!)

How many days in each destination?

We stayed 3 nights in Pogliano a Mare, 3 nights in Leece & 3 nights in Matera, then finally 1 night in Bari as this is where our flight was from. We found this was a great balance between being able to easily visit nearby towns and villages on our list, but not constantly feel like you are unpacking and repacking.

Alternatively, you could stay in Bari for the full duration of your trip and take advantage of the train and bus connections of the busy city. See the “getting around” section of this guide.

Getting to Puglia

There are two main airport options for travelling around Puglia: Bari in the North and Brindisi in the south. Which one you choose will all depend on the out bound flight options in your area, and which areas of Puglia are on your itinerary or bucket list .

We chose Bari because there were direct flights available from Edinburgh. One of the great advantages of visiting Puglia is that it’s a lesser-known warm-weather destination in southern Italy compared with places like the Amalfi Coast or Sorrento. However, because it’s still something of a hidden gem, there are fewer flight options — especially from the UK. I live in Newcastle upon Tyne, and the closest airport offering flights to Puglia was Edinburgh. The upside to this is that Puglia remains a quieter, less crowded travel destination, but it does require a bit more planning if you don’t live near a major hub like Manchester or London Heathrow.

Getting around Puglia

Car Rental

Renting a car is highly recommended if you want to see as much of Puglia as possible in a short amount of time. While travelling by bus and train is doable, it requires significantly more planning and flexibility.

We rented a car at Bari Airport with a company called Sicily by Car and had a positive experience overall. We encountered no issues and were even given a free upgrade to a larger, more expensive vehicle than the one we originally booked. As with any car hire, it’s essential to take plenty of photos and videos of the car at the rental lot before driving away.

The queues for car rental at Bari Airport were long across all companies, though some moved faster than others. Despite having one of the larger queues, Sicily by Car was relatively efficient, and the staff explained all policies clearly.

Thankfully, we had no problems when returning the car and avoided any scratches or damage. However, driving in Italy can be challenging if you’re not a confident driver, and there were a few near-miss situations. We picked up the car at Bari Airport and drove straight to our first stay in Polignano a Mare.

If you’re arriving late in the evening or at night, it may be worth staying in Bari city for your first night and collecting your rental car the following day.

Public Transport in Puglia

Before visiting Puglia, I was under the impression that it could only really be explored by renting a car. However, once I arrived, I discovered that there are actually lots of great public transport options available.

Although we did rent a car on this trip, I always advocate for travelling by public transport whenever possible, as my partner and I cannot drive. I try not to let this deter me from visiting all the places I want to see, and fortunately, many of the destinations in this guide are accessible by public transport.

When I return to Puglia, I’ll likely visit Matera* by bus from Bari, then travel to Lecce and explore other southern locations on this itinerary by train.

Bari Airport

At Bari Airport, the train station is located on your left as you exit the arrivals gates—head in the direction of the car rental signage. The train takes around 20 minutes to reach Bari city centre.

From Bari Airport, both trains and shuttle buses are available to reach Bari city as well as surrounding areas and key points of interest.

Trains

There are regular direct trains from Bari Centrale to Lecce, with journey times ranging from 1 hour 20 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the service. One-way tickets typically cost between €13 and €24.

There are also frequent direct trains to Polignano a Mare, which take approximately 20–30 minutes and cost between €3.50 and €9.

I’ve used the following website for train route planning and timetables: here

*Note: Matera is not in Puglia but is nearby and absolutely worth a visit.

Driving Route

For this trip we rented a car and followed a loop through southern Italy, which allowed us to explore some of the smaller towns that would have been much harder to reach by public transport. Our route started in Bari, heading down the Adriatic coast to Polignano a Mare where we stayed overnight for 3 nights. From there we explored the nearby towns of Monopoli and Alberobello. Then our next overnight stay for 3 nights in Lecce. On the drive down to Lecce we did a day trip to Ostuni. Whilst staying in Lecce we did a day trip to Gallipoli. After that we headed to Matera staying overnight for 3 nights, on the drive to Matera we stopped off for a visit to Martina Franca. After we stayed in Matera, we stayed for 1 night in Bari, before flying home.

One of the best things about driving in Puglia is that the distances between towns are relatively short. Most of our journeys were between 30 minutes and 1.5 hours, which meant we could explore several places in a day without spending too long in the car.

Accommodation

Alvino Regis Matera Hotel, Matera

£236.35 per person for 3 nights at the end of September based on 2 people sharing

We stayed at Alvino Relais Matera and honestly it felt like such a luxury stay for a very reasonable price. It was the perfect way to end our Italian road trip. After weeks of moving around, having a beautiful pool to properly switch off by felt like a lovely treat.

The hotel itself is set in a stunning old pasta factory, and the interiors are absolutely gorgeous. It feels high end without being pretentious. The pool area was a real highlight for us, calm, stylish and the ideal place to unwind for a few hours in the afternoon sun.

Breakfast was included in our rate and it was excellent. Proper Italian coffee, pancakes, berry compote, yoghurt, fresh fruit, scrambled, poached and fried eggs, different types of fresh bread, bacon, sausages and so much more. It was one of those breakfasts where you end up going back for “just one more thing”.

Pros

The whole hotel has a luxurious feel and beautifully designed interiors. The swimming pool area really elevates the stay. There is a private car park, which was a huge bonus for us as we were road tripping.

It is about a 20 minute walk into the heart of Matera old town, which actually worked well for us. Driving through the historic centre with cobbled streets, steep hills and narrow lanes would have been stressful, so being slightly outside felt easier.

The room was spacious and very comfortable, with a large bed, coffee machine and a minibar included in the price. WiFi worked well and, considering the quality of the hotel, we felt we got excellent value for money. There is also a spa available at an additional cost, which looked amazing, but we sadly did not have time to try it.

Cons

There is a train line that runs past the hotel. We personally did not notice any noise, but it may be something to consider if you are a very light sleeper.

The hotel is not located directly inside the old town, so if you want to step straight out into the historic centre, this might not be the ideal choice.

Links to accommodation here 

Glass House Hotel, Lecce

£164 per person for 3 nights based on 2 people sharing

We stayed at Glass House Hotel and overall I thought it was really good value for money. The rooms were surprisingly spacious, with loads of wardrobe space which I always appreciate, especially if you are staying for more than a couple of nights. The balconies had stylish glass panels, the air con worked perfectly which is essential in southern Italy, and the whole place felt modern and clean.

It did not have a pool, and I would say it felt slightly more like an Airbnb than a traditional hotel. Check in was arranged via WhatsApp and we were sent codes to access the building, rather than being greeted at reception in the usual way. There is a reception area, so this may depend on arrival time, but just something to be aware of if you prefer a more hands on hotel experience.

Pros

The interiors are modern and stylish, and the atmosphere is quiet and relaxing. The bed was large and very comfortable, and having a coffee machine in the room was such a nice touch for slow mornings. The WiFi worked well throughout our stay.

Location wise, it is around a 10 minute walk into the heart of Lecce Old Town, which felt like a great balance of being close but not right in the middle of the noise. There is also a private gated car park with CCTV, which is ideal if you are road tripping around Puglia.

Cons

Check in is only available during certain hours and managed via WhatsApp, which might not suit everyone.

Parking is not included in the room rate and costs an additional 15 euros per day, and spaces need to be reserved in advance.

Links to accommodation here 

Al Civico 3 Centro – Polignano a Mare

£111 per person | 3 nights (4 people sharing)

The thing we loved the most about this accomodation was the host Davide, who was such a lovely, welcoming host. He communicated with us by whatsapp before we arrived, and was there to greet us at the door on arrival. He showed us around the rooms, had arranged some breakfast cakes and pastieries, and have us reccomendations for local resturaunts and places to visit. We would see Davide around Polignano a Mare often, and he always greeted us so warmly.

In addition to lovely Davide, the location of this accommodation is perfect, the balconies overlook the bustling street called Via Anemone, which was perfect for quickly visiting the room throughout the day, and perfect for people watching with all the nonnas at the balcony.

Pros

The apartment is in an excellent central location in the heart of Polignano a Mare. The balcony offers a lovely view and is a great spot for people-watching.

The apartment represents great value for money and includes two bedrooms, one double and one twin, making it ideal for groups. There is also a kitchenette and dining area, along with a coffee machine and sweet breakfast treats.

The host, Davide, who lives and works locally in Polignano a Mare, was such a lovely, welcoming and provided helpful advice and recommendations throughout our stay.

Cons

Despite being listed on Expedia as having parking included, this was not the case. We had to park at the train station, which felt slightly risky at times.

This is not a negative, but it is worth noting that the apartment is traditional and simple in style. It is clean and comfortable but does not feature decorative or “Instagram-style” interiors, which may matter to some travellers.

Links to accommodation here 

Itinerary 

10-Day Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

This itinerary is very manageable over 10 days by car and offers a great balance between sightseeing, travel days, and time to relax.

We chose Polignano a Mare as our first base for three nights, using it to explore Alberobello and Monopoli as day trips before returning to Polignano a Mare each evening.

From there, we travelled south to Lecce, stopping in Ostuni along the way to break up the drive. Lecce was our base for three nights, during which we visited Gallipoli for a beach day. While Gallipoli was lovely, in hindsight I think I would have preferred Otranto as a beach destination.

Next, we headed north towards Matera, stopping in Martina Franca en route. We stayed in Matera for three nights, which gave us enough time to explore the city at a relaxed pace. We then spent our final evening in Bari city centre before departing.