Sifnos Travel Guide

I honestly love Sifnos so much and I really recommend it. If you’re a foodie and you love trying high-end restaurants, this island is absolutely for you. We stayed in Kastro and loved it — it felt like one of the most authentically Greek islands I’ve ever visited, which is exactly why I fell in love with it. There are over 230 churches on the island, and some great hiking trails too.

Sifnos has a really traditional feel and is slightly different from the more touristy islands. I would recommend staying in either Kastro or Apollonia. If you’re looking to party, this island might not be the best fit. It’s one of the quietest islands I’ve visited, but I did go in May, so I can imagine it becomes busier during peak season. There are only around 3,000 people living on the island, so it’s definitely a slower-paced place.

I can imagine some people might find it too quiet, but I absolutely loved it. In fact, it’s my favourite Greek island ever.

We stayed at Sifnos for 5 nights, and I believe you could stay for longer, I will definitely be trying to return next year. Of course, if you are renting a car you will be able to cover much more ground, much quicker, so you may not feel that 5 nights is not necessary.

Getting to Sifnos

There are no airports on Sifnos, so it’s mainly accessible by ferry, which keeps the island fairly quiet - a definite bonus. We arrived in Sifnos by fast ferry from Paros; it was an extremely choppy ride, but we were travelling in May on a rainy, windy day, so the conditions definitely played a part. Other options include arriving from the port of Athens (Piraeus) or travelling via nearby islands such as Milos or Serifos, depending on your route and schedule.

Getting Around

Taxi

When we arrived in the port town of Kamares, there were taxis lined up waiting for ferry passengers. We easily got a taxi for €20 for a 15-minute journey. There are only 10 taxi drivers on the island, so while we didn’t have any issues, it’s worth booking ahead if you have a ferry or a reservation you don’t want to miss.

Public Bus

Public buses are €2 per journey. Apollonia and Kamares have the best connections, with the most frequent timetables. Because we stayed in Kastro, we had to take the bus to Apollonia first, and then catch a connecting bus to Faros Beach, for example. I would still stay in Kastro again, but I can see the benefits of staying in Apollonia too — it’s stunning and more central for getting around.

The bus timetable is difficult to find online, but when you arrive, you can scan a QR code at the bus stop to pull up all the routes and timetables. I took photos of the QR code and the official Sifnos bus service is linked here:

https://systhema.gr/dromologia/

Renting a Car

Sifnos is a small island, so renting a car isn't entirely necessary, however as previously explained, using public buses can be tricky in terms of needing to get connecting bus services, also they aren't frequent, with some areas only having a departure twice per day, so you are limited. If you want to visit everything the island has to offer, in a short space of time, then renting car is the ideal, as well as being able to come and go as you please.

Most car rental companies have their offices in Kamares (port town) which can be seen as you make your way off the ferry into the port.

The following car rental places are at the ferry port:

https://www.protomotocar.gr

https://rentacar-sifnos.gr

https://podotastravel.gr

Accommodation

Agnanti Hotel, Kastro – Budget Friendly

This is the hotel we stayed at, and it was perfect for us. It’s a traditional hotel, so if you’re used to 5-star luxury, it might not be your style, but we loved it. The owner, Angelo, runs the hotel with his family and is the perfect host. He was so welcoming and gave us a detailed explanation of hiking trails, places to visit, and how to get around. He even drew maps and made notes for us, which was such a personal touch.

The breakfast was incredible — home cooked every morning, with so much choice. You don’t choose what you want; he just makes an array of food like eggs, cakes, bread, coffee or tea, orange juice, and traditional Greek breakfast dishes. Breakfast is served from 8:30 to 10:30.

We arrived on a rainy Sunday evening and the streets were completely dead, so I was worried we’d chosen somewhere with nothing going on. But there are actually so many good restaurants and bars in Kastro, it’s just a very quiet village and might not be for everyone.

The biggest selling point of this hotel (apart from Angelo) is the view of Kastro. It honestly felt like our own little slice of heaven and was one of the highlights of the trip. The location is perfect — only a four-minute walk into Kastro, and a bus stop right outside. The hotel also offers private parking, which is ideal if you’re driving around the island.

The only downside is that the traditional rooms have very hard beds. We swapped rooms for an extra €10 per day and were glad we did, so I’d recommend doing that if you prefer a softer bed.

Links to accommodation here 

Verina Astra, Kastro – Luxury

This hotel is a favourite with high-end influencers. It’s located on a cliff edge around a 12-minute drive from Kastro, and it’s very secluded and private. The hotel restaurant, Bostani, is open to the public and is on most people’s gastronomy hot list. This one would be a little out of the way, if you wanted to head into Kastro without relying on a taxi or car, so keep this in mind. 

Prices

In terms of costs, Sifnos is definitely more expensive than some other islands, especially when it comes to food and drinks. Accommodation can be very reasonable depending on where you stay — we paid around £190.50 per person for 5 nights at Agnanti Hotel in Kastro, which felt like really good value for a traditional, well-run place with amazing views. Transport costs are also fairly straightforward: taxis from the port town of Kamares to Kastro cost about €20, and buses are €2 per journey, though they can require connections depending on where you’re staying. As for food and drinks, prices are noticeably higher than islands like Naxos. A coffee and croissant cost around €8, and meals can add up quickly if you’re dining at the nicer restaurants. For example, a two-person meal with wine at Stiadi came to about €69, and a set menu for two with wine at Cantina cost around €169. If you’re planning to eat out at high-end restaurants and have a few drinks, I’d budget around €60–€100 per person per day, and a bit more if you’re renting a car or doing lots of fine dining. Overall, Sifnos is perfect for foodies, but it’s worth planning your budget slightly higher than you might for other Greek islands.

Restaurants & Bars

Loggia Wine Bar, Kastro

This wine bar is tucked away in Kastro and can be a little tricky to find, but it’s worth the effort. It’s perched on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea, making it the perfect place to watch the sunset. I’d recommend booking in advance if you’re visiting during peak season.

It’s not a budget-friendly spot — the cheapest glass of wine is around €9 and mains range from €21 to €27 — but the setting is completely unique and it’s a real experience.

Kavos Sunrise Bar, Kastro

This bar has incredible views and is definitely not for the faint of heart, but it was a highlight for us. It’s close to Loggia, but the vibe couldn’t be more different. Loggia is high-end and chic, while Kavos Sunrise is down-to-earth and quirky, but with the same stunning views.

The bar is owned by Kostas, who used to live in Cuba, and the walls are covered in photos and memories. It feels like a museum or an art installation in itself. They serve only rum mojitos for €5. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it kind of place, and I absolutely loved it.

Stiadi Restaurant, Kastro

This was one of our absolute favourite restaurants. Every bite was bursting with flavour. It specialises in fish, particularly raw fish, which isn’t really my thing, so I ordered tuna and grilled cabbage instead. Honestly, the meal was incredible — words don’t do it justice.

Compared to other restaurants on Sifnos, Stiadi felt more reasonably priced, especially considering how delicious the food was. A meal for two with wine cost €69 (about £58).

Cantina, Kastro

This restaurant is on every Pinterest board and every wishlist, and it definitely lives up to the hype. We went as a birthday treat, and although it’s not normally the type of place we’d choose, Sifnos is an island for foodies, so we wanted to try a fine dining experience.

We had a set menu that changes seasonally. The set menu for two people with two glasses of wine came to €168.53 (about £141). The setting is gorgeous and completely unique, overlooking a pebble beach. We enjoyed the food and don’t regret going, but for us, Stiadi was just as good for less money.

Other top picks

Areas to stay

Kastro

We stayed in Kastro, and I am so happy with this choice. It was secluded enough that you could wander the beautiful streets without hordes of tourists, but still easily accessible to other parts of Sifnos by bus. There was a great mix of bars and restaurants nearby to keep you entertained. The views from Kastro are some of the best I have ever seen, and it truly feels like staying in a forgotten part of Greece.

That said, some people might find it a bit too quiet, so if you’re after a busier atmosphere, consider staying in the port town of Kamares or in Apollonia, the island’s main village. The only real con I can think of is that Kastro only has a small pebble beach, so if you’re a beach lover, I’d recommend staying in Faro or Cheronissos instead. 

Kamares

This is the port town of Sifnos, and I would recommend staying here if you’re not renting a car, as the bus connections are best from the port. Personally, I wouldn’t choose to stay here, as compared to Apollonia and Kastro it didn’t have the same charm or atmosphere. That being said, it did seem to have a good selection of bars and restaurants, as well as a long sandy beach, which may appeal to some travellers.

Apollonia

A traditional mountain village, Apollonia is the main village of Sifnos. Calling it the largest village makes it sound like it would be busy, but it is still very relaxed and slow-paced. There are great options for bars, cafés, and restaurants here, and as mentioned earlier in this guide, it has some of the best public bus connections on the island. I found that bars and restaurants in Apollonia stayed open later than in other areas of Sifnos.

The main downside is that there are no beaches, as the village is set up in the mountains. However, Apollonia is full of gorgeous churches and whitewashed buildings and is absolutely picture-perfect.

Cheronissos

I would personally stay here if I could drive or if renting a car was an option. It is extremely secluded and authentic. There are a few B&B options, and the small fishing village has stunning, crystal-clear blue waters — it truly looks like something out of a postcard.

The downside of staying here without a car is its isolation. It’s not close to other parts of Sifnos and is quite far from villages like Kastro and Apollonia, which are usually on most people’s itineraries. If you’re relying on public transport, staying here would be tricky, as there are only two bus departures from Cheronissos each day.

Vathy

Vathy is one of the most popular beach areas on Sifnos, and it’s easy to see why. The bay is wide and sheltered, making it one of the calmest and best swimming spots on the island. It feels more developed than places like Kastro or Cheronissos, but it still has a relaxed, laid-back vibe rather than feeling overly touristy.

There are plenty of hotels, apartments, and beachfront tavernas in Vathy, so everything you need is within walking distance. It’s a great option if you want to be close to the beach without needing a car, as there are regular bus connections to Apollonia and other parts of the island. The downside is that it can feel a bit busier during peak season, and it doesn’t have the same historic charm as villages like Kastro. That said, if your priority is easy beach access, calm waters, and convenience, Vathy is a really solid choice.

Faros

Faros is a small seaside village that strikes a nice balance between relaxed and lively. It has a charming, local feel while still offering a good selection of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront. The village is built around a picturesque bay, and the beach here is sandy and family-friendly, with calm, shallow waters that are perfect for swimming.

One of the highlights of staying in Faros is its location. It’s close to some of the island’s best beaches, including Apokofto and the stunning Chrissopigi Monastery, which is within walking distance. Faros is also well connected by bus, making it easy to reach Apollonia and other areas without a car. While it doesn’t have nightlife in the traditional sense, evenings here are peaceful and atmospheric, centred around sunset dinners by the sea. If you’re looking for a beautiful beach base with a relaxed village feel, Faros is a great option.

Places of interest

Church of the Seven Martyrs

The Church of the Seven Martyrs is one of the most iconic landmarks on Sifnos. Perched on a rocky outcrop below Kastro, this small whitewashed church is surrounded by the sea and offers breathtaking views in every direction. Reaching the church requires a short walk, but the reward is well worth it, especially at sunset when the light over the water is unforgettable. It’s one of the most photographed spots on the island and perfectly captures the beauty and simplicity of the Cyclades.

Kastro

Kastro is one of the most atmospheric places on Sifnos and a must-visit, even if you’re not staying there. The village is a former medieval capital, built dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Aegean, with narrow winding alleys, whitewashed houses, and sweeping sea views at every turn. Wandering through Kastro feels like stepping back in time, and it’s best explored slowly with no real plan. Sunset here is especially special, and the walk down to Seralia Beach below the village is well worth it for a refreshing swim in crystal-clear waters.

Cheronissos Beach

Cheronissos Beach is a quiet, picturesque beach in the far north of Sifnos, set in a small fishing village with a very authentic feel. The beach is calm and peaceful, with clear blue waters and a relaxed atmosphere that feels worlds away from the busier parts of the island. Fishing boats line the shore, and there are a few tavernas nearby serving fresh seafood right by the water. It’s an ideal spot for a slow, laid-back day and a great example of Sifnos at its most traditional.

Vlichada Beach

Vlichada Beach is one of the most striking beaches on Sifnos, famous for its dramatic white rock formations carved by wind and sea over time. The landscape here feels almost otherworldly and is very different from the island’s more traditional sandy beaches. While parts of the beach are organised with sunbeds and umbrellas, there are also quieter sections if you prefer a more natural setting. It’s an ideal spot for a relaxed beach day, especially if you enjoy unique scenery and clear blue waters.

Artemonas

Artemonas is a charming and elegant village just a short walk from Apollonia, known for its neoclassical mansions, beautifully kept houses, and quiet residential feel. It feels slightly more refined and peaceful than Apollonia, making it a lovely place for a morning stroll. The village is also famous for its traditional pastry shops, so it’s the perfect stop for a coffee and something sweet. Artemonas offers a glimpse into a more traditional, slower-paced side of Sifnos, away from the busier areas.

Apollonia

Apollonia is the beating heart of Sifnos and the best place to experience everyday island life. The main street, Steno, is lined with cafés, bakeries, boutiques, and tavernas, making it a lively spot throughout the day and into the evening. Despite being the main village, it never feels overwhelming and still maintains a relaxed, local atmosphere. Apollonia is also a great base for exploring the island, with excellent bus connections and walking paths leading to nearby villages and viewpoints.

Hiking Trails

Sifnos is a great destination for hiking, with a well-maintained network of marked trails that connect villages, churches, beaches, and viewpoints across the island. Many of these paths were once the main routes between villages, and walking them is one of the best ways to experience the quieter, more authentic side of the island. The trails range in difficulty, but most are manageable and offer incredible views along the way.

One of our favourite hikes started in Apollonia and ended in Kastro, passing through Artemonas and following sections of the coastline. The walk begins in Apollonia and leads gently into Artemonas, where you pass peaceful streets, traditional houses, and local bakeries — a great place to stop for a coffee before continuing. From here, the trail becomes more open and rural, with wide views across the coastline and the sea for much of the walk.

As you follow the coastal path, the scenery feels increasingly untouched, with stone paths, low vegetation, and uninterrupted sea views. Toward the end of the hike, Kastro slowly comes into view, making the arrival on foot especially rewarding. Finishing the walk with a wander through Kastro’s narrow streets or a swim at Seralia Beach below is the perfect way to end the hike.

The total distance of this walk is around 6–7 kilometres, and it takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on your pace and how often you stop. The trail is moderate in difficulty and suitable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.

What to bring: comfortable walking shoes or trainers, plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat, especially in the warmer months. There is limited shade along parts of the trail, so starting earlier in the day is recommended. Bringing a swimsuit is also a great idea if you plan to cool off at Seralia Beach at the end.

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